Monday, March 18, 2024

Riding the Metro in Santiago, Chile

As many of you know, I work in public transit, and so I like to test out the transit systems of the cities we visit. However, since Josh isn’t that excited about transit for transit’s sake, we normally only ride when it’s time competitive with other ways of getting around. 

Santiago has an underground subway system, which I convinced Josh to try out. A friend from Seattle had given me a Bip! card — similar to Seattle’s ORCA card and San Francisco’s Clipper card. Based on what I saw online, the only way to pay for the Metro in Santiago these days is with a Bip! card so I was happy to arrive with one of our own. 

On the first day we tried to ride, I approached the kiosk machine to see if I could buy a second card, assuming we’d each need one. Although, the machine was Spanish-only, I was able to figure out that the machine was out of cards, so we got in the long line for the single customer service agent. 


My Spanish is pretty crummy, even after 6 weeks in Latin America. Once I got the agent to understand where we wanted to go, I handed over the card and she checked my balance. It was enough for our rides and she informed me I could tap twice to pay for both of us. 


Pleased with my ability to get by in Spanish, we headed to the turnstile, only to get an error message when I tapped the card. Apparently, it had been deactivated, likely because it had been a while since my friend used it. The security guard couldn’t get it to work and when she tried to fix it in another machine, that machine wouldn’t work either. That’s when I learned that the train wasn’t even going where we needed to go that day. Apparently the customer service agent didn’t think to tell us that. 

20 minutes after we arrived at the station, we abandoned the train and took an Uber to our brunch spot, just in time for our reservation!

The next day I convinced Josh to let me try the Metro again. This time we went to a different station, and had no wait to talk to the customer service agent. We bought two new Bip! cards and added fare for 2 rides each. Easy peasy.  We tapped our cards at the turnstile and were off on our way!

It was neat to see the info screens at the train station. There were some massive monitors above the tracks which showed the status of each route. And then there were smaller screens which showed arrival times for the next trains. All of which had ads, sometimes with ads only on the screen so we had to wait awhile to see info on the trains to cycle through.

The trains had a good amount of passengers and we stood. The seats were plastic/vinyl with what looked like slightly softer padded areas, still easy to wipe or spray clean. I much prefer washable surfaces to the fabric seats in our trains and buses in Seattle, although I know the harder seats are less comfortable for reine riders.

All in all, a good experience, even for someone with limited Spanish skills. Here are some photos from our adventure:

Our new transit fare cards which cost $1,500 pesos each (about $1.50), plus a fare of $750 each way ($0.75 USD).

Josh tapping his card to enter through the turnstile. Having turnstiles where you have to tap to enter makes fare evasion more difficult and there was a security guard standing nearby (not pictured) to answer questions and also enforce fare payment. 

Josh and I waiting for the train. 

The train!

Platform sign showing next stops and arrival times on the left and rotating ads on the right.

A sign over the exit showing arriving trains and status of each route.

Huge sign over the tracks with info on arrival times on each side and rotating ads in the middle. 

Large sign showing status of each route, along with an ad. This screen rotated through and played maybe every 2 minutes after a series of ads.

Partially full train.

The plastic/vinyl seat, briefly unoccupied.

Double doors to exit the platform, although no need to tap off since it is a flat fare system.

Friday, March 8, 2024

Flowers of the O Trek

Flowers are beautiful. They are also a reason to rest my weary feet and take a quick break on a long hike. Here are my favorites from the O Trek. I used National Geographic’s “Seek” app to identify these and a few stumped the app. I welcome your insights. 

Unknown aster/daisy family - chamomile?

Unknown aster/daisy family

No clue but pretty 

Mouse-ear chickweed

Unknown Cachrys 

Calafate berry

Red crowberry

Redclaws

Unknown aster/daisy family

Nassauvia dentata 

Calceolaria biflora

Unknown aster/daisy family

Prickly health

Unknown Bidibid

Redclaws

Purple foxglove 

Hardy fuchsia 

Chilean fire bush

Unknown aster/daisy family


Patagonia O Trek Recap

Hello friends! We just finished the 5th month of our sabbatical and I have only written one blog post. My apologies. I had meant to do this regularly and have totally let that slip away. But I am here today, thumb-typing on my iPhone mini while laying on a bed in a hotel room on a drizzly day in Punta Arenas, Chile. So that’s something, right?!

Three days ago we finished the longest backpacking trip of my life. We hiked more than 75 miles and climbed more than 15,000 ft over 8 days, camping at 7 different places along the way. We met lovely people from around the world: Italy, Australia, Canada, France, Ireland, Netherlands, and even the USA and Chile (our current locale). 

If you have heard of Patagonia, you have probably seen the quintessential vista of Los Torres and its beautiful lake. This is the first and/or last stop on most Torres del Paine National Park visits. It was the final destination on our circumnavigation of the park. 

Some highlights:

- Cresting John Gardner pass on Day 4 only to discover that the bank of clouds I saw spread across the horizon was actually Grey Glacier. And then getting to hike alongside the glacier for miles. Epic!

- Avoiding blisters, thanks to dorky toe socks and the super handy leukotape that Josh picked up in Seattle for me. 

- 7 bottles of $22 red wine, which we bought and drank together—one per day except for the 3rd day when none was for sale.

- Sunrise on Los Cuernos (the horns) on day 7, spied from the trail after starting our hike in the dark. I was eager to get moving because we had a long day ahead and I didn’t want to miss the cut-off time to hike to Los Torres, but Josh convinced me that we could spare 15 minutes to watch the sky change colors. It was totally worth it and we made it to Los Torres with 90 minutes to spare—or in my case, 90 minutes to draw and paint that stunning landscape.

- Watching the funny caracara bird prance around the campground at Dickson as we prepared to set out on day 3 of our trek. Its red face, high-and-tight hair cut, and serious expression made me laugh.

- Watching Andean condors soar above countless vistas, including on day 5 when a half dozen of them climbed in thermals above a ridge while we watched and wished we could join them in the sky.

- Sketching mountains and painting glaciers with my sketchbook hidden in a dry bag to keep it safe and functional on drizzly day 6 at Mirador Francis. I impressed myself with my creativity on this setup!

- Surviving 3 (or 4?) suspension bridges and countless of other un-reinforced wooden bridges, boardwalks, slick and muddy planks, and rocky stream crossings.

- Several pretty rainbows including a couple leaping forth out of the glacier, giving me a reason to appreciate rain. 

Bottom line, I’m delighted that the feet I broke this month 10 years ago on our last sabbatical could carry me and my 25-30 lb pack across so many miles and mountain passes, enabling me to experience this incredible place with my beloved.

And here are some photos:

Starting the O Trek in the rain. 

Boardwalk between Seron and Dickson

The view towards Dickson glacier.

One serious Caracara bird. 

Painting by the mountains next to Dickson glacier. 

Hike up to Gardner Pass. 

Grey Glacier.

Josh starting one of the suspension bridges. 

Our greenish-white tent squeezed in amongst the premium tents at Grey. 

Rainbow on our hike to Paine Grande. 

Sunrise at Paine Grande. 

The beach and Los Cuernos (the horns).

Sunrise on Los Cuernos. 

Painting at Los Torres (the towers).

A completely unnecessary “bridge” on the hike to Los Torres. 

Enjoying our final bottle of white at the end of the O Trek.